Small is Beautiful : as necessary as doable (in english)
3/26/06 Letter from Tuvalu
Almost a month has gone by since my last message in a bottle - back
during the flooding. Hard to believe I'll be heading home to Los
Angeles in a few days.LA and bustling America. I do look forward to
home and all its pleasures. As some kind of proof, I keep imagining
asking my taxidriver to make a stop on the way back from LAX at the
Fatburger in the Marina so that I can indulge my need for some grade A
cherce immediately following landing. I have eaten enough tuna here to
last a lifetime --- boiled, fricasseed, fried, curried, stir-fried,
grilled, raw.etcetcetc. You all know Bubba's shrimp list from Forest
Gump.just substitute tuna..
I can already feel my entire being prepping for the 24/7 onslaught
which is America at its worst and best.at least the urban part of it.
And I can feel too, as that reality creeps back into my psyche, how
much I will miss the tranquility of this place.
Don't misunderstand. Tuvalu is no utopia. There are indeed palms,
turquoise waters filled with multi-colored fish and friendly, generous
people, some amazing deserted beaches on the outer islands that are
probably as close to real, unspoiled paradise as one can get on this
earth. But beyond the surface, Tuvalu is as filled with bickering,
pettiness and gossip as anyplace where humans are part of the
equation.and a growing list of troubles that face most developing
nations.
One thing, however, still sticks out as very unusual - an absence that
has a trickle-down effect reaching almost every facet of life here:
there is almost zero sales mentality.the very thing that permeates
almost every pore of modern industrial society - and at which we
Americans are particularly talented. Why? Well.there just isn't much to
sell here.never has been, so there simply has been little need for
salesmanship, advertising, brash showmanship and all the rest. It's
just not part of the culture.or, at least, it hasn't been.
Additionally, there is almost no tourism.no one with bux to burn to
sell to. Tuvalu is just too remote -- hard and expensive to get to --
compared to other existing and perhaps better endowed South Pacific
destinations. So remote, in fact, that in the 5 weeks I have been here
- and aside from the twin prop that flies here from Fiji 3 times a week
-- I have not seen even a single plane flying overhead.not one, not
even waaay up there.
There is almost nothing in Tuvalu that a westerner would consider luxe,
but altogether it all makes for an almost shocking level of
tranquility.an entirely different kind of luxury.
I had an especially sweet taste of it 3 weeks ago during a 4-day trip
to Niulakita and Nukulaelae, 2 of Tuvalu's outer islands. Escorted by
jumping bottle-nosed dolphins as we left Funafuti lagoon, it took the
Manu Falao - one of 2 small ferry/cargo boats which are the only
transport and monthly supply lifeline to the outer islands -- 12 hours
to reach Niulakita, population 46. Sarah H ( the biofuel expert who is
part of our sustainable technology team) and I slept on deck with many
snoring Tuvaluans. Supremely gifted and enthusiastic snorers.
We arrived just as the sun came up, the crew already beginning to load
cargo onto the ship-to-shore workboats at 5:30 when I awoke. Almost a
vision from Robinson Crusoe, Niulakita consists of a few pandanas huts,
2-room prefab cottages and a church (always a church) on roughly 1 sq
km of beach-bordered land literally in the middle of nowhere.the
smallest of Tuvalu's 9 islands. The day was spent mostly talking to
people and otherwise gathering information for the national sustainable
energy project we are working on. But there was also a vast lunch,
pots of local food, with the local pastor and his family -- an
invitation that appeared as if by magic - and some time to swim before
returning to the boat for the overnight journey to Nukulaelae.this time
accompanied, as we left, by a school of flying fish (which have wings
and really do fly). With a population of about 400 and more land,
Nukulaelae is more developed.with more of a real village, a telecom
satellite dish, a general store, a few motor scooters, some computers.
Compared to both places, however, Funafuti (pop 4500) is New York AND
Tokyo.the place most of the young people want to be. For a few "lucky
ones", it might also just be a stepping stone to a life beyond Tuvalu.
Inevitably, of course, the relative innocence of Tuvalu will change. In
the 3 years since I was last here making "Trouble in Paradise", it
already has. But the pace will surely accelerate now that affordable
satellite tv has just arrived in Funafuti. Receiving dishes are
sprouting up all over like mushrooms after rain. ESPN, E!, CNN, BBC,
MTV, the crazy religious channels, glam US and UK series, advertising,
teleshopping, etc. People will soon want more of what they see,
especially the kids.all the great, shiny stuff that's out there and
beckoning.and this will start an entire cycle where money and things
become increasingly important. More money will have to be earned to
support the new consumerism.and voila!.the sales mentality and its
corollary, an ever-increasing desire for "more". Once it comes, it's
viral. Hard to see how the freight train can be stopped.except,
perhaps, through both education and enlightened government policy. A
pretty tall order in a developing country, where even the idea of being
able to have all this cool stuff is still relatively new. Hell, it's a
tall order anywhere.
I have often wondered if this is one of the underlying things that some
of the rhetoric from Islam refers to when calling the US - the
standard-bearer of western industrial society - a "great satan". The
wild consumerism disconnected from spirit and the sense of entitlement
it seems to engender; the environmentally heavy footprint that passes
for workaday normalcy in the industrialized world, a psychology we
export willy-nilly and which increasing scientific evidence tells us
threatens our very future. I am not defending the accusers - their own
house is a worse mess of hypocrisy than our own and needs attending to.
Nor am I suggesting a return to a "simpler time" is really possible on
a mass scale. Progress will happen.and I like my stuff too. And I love
my country even if I'm not happy or proud of its present state. But if
this is, in fact, part of the message -and never mind who is bearing it
-- then I think some of it warrants listening to more carefully. For
our own sake.and if we truly are interested in rebuilding meaningful
long-term credibility and leadership in the world. I believe we can, by
our choices both personal and collective, exert great influence over
the priorities which determine what kind of progress we want.
It has been interesting preaching the twin gospel of appropriate
technology and sustainable development to the government of Tuvalu.
Aside from filming the record high tides last month, it is the reason
our small team is here.backed up by both an ongoing study of existing
energy use and waste management practices as well as concrete projects
which will move Tuvalu toward greater sustainability, economic strength
and better environmental stewardship.
One can detect some very understandable underlying skepticism when yet
more palangis (foreigners) from the developed world come and hold forth
with their highfallutin' ideas, no matter how well-intentioned. Some
even say why bother if Tuvalu is indeed destined for destruction in the
next 50 years due to the effects of global warming? Never mind that
Funafuti is flat with only about 10 kms of passable roads.why can't WE
have our MTV and drive suv's if we want 'em.like you do? Tough
questions for one who is privileged to answer.and yet.
.at a presentation of our findings last week for the prime minister and
his cabinet, there was also growing recognition that something's gotta
give. With current oil prices, Tuvalu, with a GDP of in the
neighborhood 14 M usd, is spending close to 20% of it importing fuel
for it's cars, boats and generators and contributing to greenhouse
emissions in the process. Without an effective waste and recycling
program, more and more of the island's scarce land is strewn with
plastic, rusting metal, toxic materials and other garbage - the flip
side of the "getting to have the cool stuff" issue.
So.there were open minds to some of our suggested solutions: using
plentiful coconuts to make biofuel which will burn cleaner, create
employment, reduce fuel imports by 25% and strengthen balance-of-trade;
use plentiful pig waste to make clean-burning methane for cooking and
organic fertilizer; recycle organic waste (70% of the total) into
compost for land reclamation and expanded gardens; develop wind and
solar resources; collect and store plastic for shipment to overseas
recycling plants; create energy standards for new construction and
private vehicles, reduced packaging for imported goods, etc, etc. And
to teach schoolkids why all this is important. All of these are based
on successful, existing technologies and practices. All make sense for
Tuvalu. and all are DOABLE in a relative short time-frame.
There was also discussion about how Tuvalu could, if it began to get
its own house in better environmental order, be in a far stronger moral
position to advocate its stated position on climate-change related
issues on the international stage. A leader by example.
We'll see what comes of all this. So far, the government has agreed to
allow a sustainable energy demonstration and training center to be
built on a nearby islet.small-scale versions of the above and more to
show people that the technologies are effective.and to teach operations
and maintenance. A pre-cursor, hopefully, to larger "commercial scale"
projects for Funafuti and the outer islands.
Who knows? Maybe Tuvalu can save its own butt - and its future -- in
the process. It's a lovely dream.and a worthy goal to shoot for.
abrazos fuertes,
chris horner
Almost a month has gone by since my last message in a bottle - back
during the flooding. Hard to believe I'll be heading home to Los
Angeles in a few days.LA and bustling America. I do look forward to
home and all its pleasures. As some kind of proof, I keep imagining
asking my taxidriver to make a stop on the way back from LAX at the
Fatburger in the Marina so that I can indulge my need for some grade A
cherce immediately following landing. I have eaten enough tuna here to
last a lifetime --- boiled, fricasseed, fried, curried, stir-fried,
grilled, raw.etcetcetc. You all know Bubba's shrimp list from Forest
Gump.just substitute tuna..
I can already feel my entire being prepping for the 24/7 onslaught
which is America at its worst and best.at least the urban part of it.
And I can feel too, as that reality creeps back into my psyche, how
much I will miss the tranquility of this place.
Don't misunderstand. Tuvalu is no utopia. There are indeed palms,
turquoise waters filled with multi-colored fish and friendly, generous
people, some amazing deserted beaches on the outer islands that are
probably as close to real, unspoiled paradise as one can get on this
earth. But beyond the surface, Tuvalu is as filled with bickering,
pettiness and gossip as anyplace where humans are part of the
equation.and a growing list of troubles that face most developing
nations.
One thing, however, still sticks out as very unusual - an absence that
has a trickle-down effect reaching almost every facet of life here:
there is almost zero sales mentality.the very thing that permeates
almost every pore of modern industrial society - and at which we
Americans are particularly talented. Why? Well.there just isn't much to
sell here.never has been, so there simply has been little need for
salesmanship, advertising, brash showmanship and all the rest. It's
just not part of the culture.or, at least, it hasn't been.
Additionally, there is almost no tourism.no one with bux to burn to
sell to. Tuvalu is just too remote -- hard and expensive to get to --
compared to other existing and perhaps better endowed South Pacific
destinations. So remote, in fact, that in the 5 weeks I have been here
- and aside from the twin prop that flies here from Fiji 3 times a week
-- I have not seen even a single plane flying overhead.not one, not
even waaay up there.
There is almost nothing in Tuvalu that a westerner would consider luxe,
but altogether it all makes for an almost shocking level of
tranquility.an entirely different kind of luxury.
I had an especially sweet taste of it 3 weeks ago during a 4-day trip
to Niulakita and Nukulaelae, 2 of Tuvalu's outer islands. Escorted by
jumping bottle-nosed dolphins as we left Funafuti lagoon, it took the
Manu Falao - one of 2 small ferry/cargo boats which are the only
transport and monthly supply lifeline to the outer islands -- 12 hours
to reach Niulakita, population 46. Sarah H ( the biofuel expert who is
part of our sustainable technology team) and I slept on deck with many
snoring Tuvaluans. Supremely gifted and enthusiastic snorers.
We arrived just as the sun came up, the crew already beginning to load
cargo onto the ship-to-shore workboats at 5:30 when I awoke. Almost a
vision from Robinson Crusoe, Niulakita consists of a few pandanas huts,
2-room prefab cottages and a church (always a church) on roughly 1 sq
km of beach-bordered land literally in the middle of nowhere.the
smallest of Tuvalu's 9 islands. The day was spent mostly talking to
people and otherwise gathering information for the national sustainable
energy project we are working on. But there was also a vast lunch,
pots of local food, with the local pastor and his family -- an
invitation that appeared as if by magic - and some time to swim before
returning to the boat for the overnight journey to Nukulaelae.this time
accompanied, as we left, by a school of flying fish (which have wings
and really do fly). With a population of about 400 and more land,
Nukulaelae is more developed.with more of a real village, a telecom
satellite dish, a general store, a few motor scooters, some computers.
Compared to both places, however, Funafuti (pop 4500) is New York AND
Tokyo.the place most of the young people want to be. For a few "lucky
ones", it might also just be a stepping stone to a life beyond Tuvalu.
Inevitably, of course, the relative innocence of Tuvalu will change. In
the 3 years since I was last here making "Trouble in Paradise", it
already has. But the pace will surely accelerate now that affordable
satellite tv has just arrived in Funafuti. Receiving dishes are
sprouting up all over like mushrooms after rain. ESPN, E!, CNN, BBC,
MTV, the crazy religious channels, glam US and UK series, advertising,
teleshopping, etc. People will soon want more of what they see,
especially the kids.all the great, shiny stuff that's out there and
beckoning.and this will start an entire cycle where money and things
become increasingly important. More money will have to be earned to
support the new consumerism.and voila!.the sales mentality and its
corollary, an ever-increasing desire for "more". Once it comes, it's
viral. Hard to see how the freight train can be stopped.except,
perhaps, through both education and enlightened government policy. A
pretty tall order in a developing country, where even the idea of being
able to have all this cool stuff is still relatively new. Hell, it's a
tall order anywhere.
I have often wondered if this is one of the underlying things that some
of the rhetoric from Islam refers to when calling the US - the
standard-bearer of western industrial society - a "great satan". The
wild consumerism disconnected from spirit and the sense of entitlement
it seems to engender; the environmentally heavy footprint that passes
for workaday normalcy in the industrialized world, a psychology we
export willy-nilly and which increasing scientific evidence tells us
threatens our very future. I am not defending the accusers - their own
house is a worse mess of hypocrisy than our own and needs attending to.
Nor am I suggesting a return to a "simpler time" is really possible on
a mass scale. Progress will happen.and I like my stuff too. And I love
my country even if I'm not happy or proud of its present state. But if
this is, in fact, part of the message -and never mind who is bearing it
-- then I think some of it warrants listening to more carefully. For
our own sake.and if we truly are interested in rebuilding meaningful
long-term credibility and leadership in the world. I believe we can, by
our choices both personal and collective, exert great influence over
the priorities which determine what kind of progress we want.
It has been interesting preaching the twin gospel of appropriate
technology and sustainable development to the government of Tuvalu.
Aside from filming the record high tides last month, it is the reason
our small team is here.backed up by both an ongoing study of existing
energy use and waste management practices as well as concrete projects
which will move Tuvalu toward greater sustainability, economic strength
and better environmental stewardship.
One can detect some very understandable underlying skepticism when yet
more palangis (foreigners) from the developed world come and hold forth
with their highfallutin' ideas, no matter how well-intentioned. Some
even say why bother if Tuvalu is indeed destined for destruction in the
next 50 years due to the effects of global warming? Never mind that
Funafuti is flat with only about 10 kms of passable roads.why can't WE
have our MTV and drive suv's if we want 'em.like you do? Tough
questions for one who is privileged to answer.and yet.
.at a presentation of our findings last week for the prime minister and
his cabinet, there was also growing recognition that something's gotta
give. With current oil prices, Tuvalu, with a GDP of in the
neighborhood 14 M usd, is spending close to 20% of it importing fuel
for it's cars, boats and generators and contributing to greenhouse
emissions in the process. Without an effective waste and recycling
program, more and more of the island's scarce land is strewn with
plastic, rusting metal, toxic materials and other garbage - the flip
side of the "getting to have the cool stuff" issue.
So.there were open minds to some of our suggested solutions: using
plentiful coconuts to make biofuel which will burn cleaner, create
employment, reduce fuel imports by 25% and strengthen balance-of-trade;
use plentiful pig waste to make clean-burning methane for cooking and
organic fertilizer; recycle organic waste (70% of the total) into
compost for land reclamation and expanded gardens; develop wind and
solar resources; collect and store plastic for shipment to overseas
recycling plants; create energy standards for new construction and
private vehicles, reduced packaging for imported goods, etc, etc. And
to teach schoolkids why all this is important. All of these are based
on successful, existing technologies and practices. All make sense for
Tuvalu. and all are DOABLE in a relative short time-frame.
There was also discussion about how Tuvalu could, if it began to get
its own house in better environmental order, be in a far stronger moral
position to advocate its stated position on climate-change related
issues on the international stage. A leader by example.
We'll see what comes of all this. So far, the government has agreed to
allow a sustainable energy demonstration and training center to be
built on a nearby islet.small-scale versions of the above and more to
show people that the technologies are effective.and to teach operations
and maintenance. A pre-cursor, hopefully, to larger "commercial scale"
projects for Funafuti and the outer islands.
Who knows? Maybe Tuvalu can save its own butt - and its future -- in
the process. It's a lovely dream.and a worthy goal to shoot for.
abrazos fuertes,
chris horner
29 / 03 / 06 - 10 : 04
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